Next Stop, Italy

Hannah and I going out for "aperitivo"

Ponte Vecchio Bridge

Hannah and I in front of the San Lorenzo markets

Although my spring break was half way over, Hannah and Arielle were just about to begin theirs. While Arielle finished up her midterms, Hannah and I explored the city. We saw the Duomo, the Ponte Vecchio Bridge and tons of stores and markets. For the one day we were together, Hannah made me have an authentic Italian eating experience. Dinner was aperitivo which is a kind of bar where appetizers and nibblers are served buffet style for free with the purchase of one drink. Breakfast the next morning was espresso and a croissant for breakfast, standing at the bar like everyone else. Lunch we ate at this amazing panini shop that is famous at least among all the kids studying abroad.

In the afternoon, I met Arielle at the train station as she had asked me to go to her grandparents house for two days with her. Her grandparents have a house outside of Palaia, a little little town in Tuscany country. 

front of the house

Arielle and I at the back of the house

Palaia and the surrounding areas are famous for their grape and olive vineyards and Arielle's grandparents are lucky enough to have their own olive trees from which they make delicious olive oil, as well as other fruit and vegetables growing on their land. I loved being able to see a different part of Italy other than the cities. No one spoke a word of English and I was able to peer into the lives of a different culture away from the prying eyes of the tourists. Between their exuberant hand motions and my fleeting (lets face it, almost nonexistent) Spanish, I was surprised that I could understand most of what the people were saying. The country was relaxing and gorgeous and an opportunity that I was very lucky to have.

Back in Florence, I met back up with Hannah and her parents who were visiting for Hannah's spring break. We got a tour of the Jewish Synagogue and then while Hannah's parents toured the city, Hannah and I did what we do best--grabbed a book, a bottle of wine, and a sunny spot to sit down and enjoy ourselves.

Mark, Melinda, Hannah and I in front of the Synagogue

Kalimera! Good Morning Greece!

View from Mina Studios where we stayed

(from top to bottom) Paige, Me, Catherine, Sam and Andy sitting on the steps of Paraportiani, the oldest church in Mykonos

The meal we cooked Saturday night in our apartment in Mykonos

Greek salad, Greek sausage cooked in Mythos beer mixed with peppers, pita and tomatoes with tzatziki sauce

 

The windmills of Mykonos

Watch the sunset on the water every night

Paige, Sam, Catherine and Andy watching the sunset

Spring Break. Originally there were seven of us. We flew into Athens where we spent a night and then Catherine, Paige, Sam, Andy and I took a early morning ferry from Athens to Mykonos. Ari and Allison, who couldn't get seats on the ferry, were scheduled to take an afternoon flight and meet us on the island later.

Meanwhile, Mina picked the five of us up from the port. Even though I had made the reservation at her studios and had been corresponding with her, she went straight to Sam and Andy, asking which one was 'Alex'. Nevertheless she was the kindest woman I have ever met, offering to drive us around the island if we ever needed and pointing out the best spots to hit. 

We didn't realize that Ari and Allison had missed their flights until we got a call from them in Santorini . Their phones never changed and so they strolled into the airport on London time, two hours late. As there were no more available flights or ferries for the next two days, they made a spontaneous decision to go to Santorini instead of waiting around the airport trying to figure out how to get to us. You can't travel with out a little bit of disaster and by now my friends and I were used to the unexpected. The two of them were lucky to find a man who presuming that they were on their honeymoon, gave them a discounted rate on the honeymoon suit and activities for the next couple of days.

Allison on an ATV

Ari

Although we didn't get any fancy motorbike toys to play with, the rest of us spent three marvelous days in Mykonos walking around town, climbing the cliffs along the coast, dancing on the beaches, test tasting every kind of 'authentic' greek food, and watching for shooting stars at night while lying in the sand. Because of the off season, we seemed to have the island to ourselves and were treated by restaurant owners not as tourists but as friends. Sounds corny, I know, but when the members of the semi-drunk family who owns the restaurant you're eating dinner in, starts toasting you every shot they take (which is often) than you gotta believe you hold a small place in their hearts... at least for the couple of hours you're there. 

After Mykonos, we flew to Athens for a day for the sole purpose of seeing the Parthenon. Sadly by the time we dropped off our bags at the hostel and made it to the Akropolis, it was closed.

The closest we could get to the Parthenon

We met up with Ari and Allison for dinner and the next day we traveled to Rome where I waved goodbye to my friends and took a train to Florence. Friends of mine from home, Hannah Roth and Arielle Kohr, are studying there for the semester and as I had already been to Rome earlier in the semester with my dad, this seemed like the perfect opportunity to meet up with them.

Questions of Location

Sometimes it'll hit me when I'm on the tube going to class. Other times it'll be when I'm getting ready to go out at night. Most recently it'll be in those foggy minutes right before I fall asleep and as I'm waking up when I realize that no, I'm not in Scotland anymore.

Edinburgh, Scotland

I miss the cheap drinks and food. I miss the feeling of familiarity that I got waking up in a small city. I miss the random person in the bar starting a chat with me and knowing that they're not just thinking about holding a barrel to my head.

'stupid American...'

I miss our long hikes and the beauty that constantly surrounded us. I miss the small group of students that became so close, spending every minute, day and night together. I miss the history of the city, and the pride of the nation and the diversity of the people.

I miss the feeling of being in one place and belonging, almost like being home.

Pentland Mountain

Now I am in London. I have left behind Edinburgh, Glasgow and the colorful accents that accompany the land and the people.

I have learned to love this place too. I have gotten used to the city, picking up groceries for dinner on my way home from class, finding the best pubs and restaurants to grab a pint, and learning to love the famous fish and chips.

It is Spring 2011. I am studying at Syracuse University. I am taking a 15 credit semester, I have a full class work load, I live in a flat with my eight roommates. It seems like any normal semester, yet I am not in Syracuse, New York. I am in London.

Parliament and Big Ben

 I'M LIVING IN LONDON.

Before I arrived, I looked forward to discovering an unfamiliar culture, to meeting new people, to waking up to a different skyline in the morning. I wanted to walk the streets of London, shop at the markets, walk around Westminster, find a little pub to become a regular at, and learn to call Flat 60 Fursecroft my home.

For ten days this was exactly what Scotland was to me, home. I sought to have a similar experience in London as I did in Scotland. And in the beginning, that's what I did.

But now the days are flying by. I'm traveling so often that I have Euros in my wallet and Pounds in a little baggy that I throw into my bag when I'm back. 3 days in London. 4 days in Italy. 3 days in London. 4 days in Istanbul. 3 days in London. 4 days in Spain. 3 days in London. 4 days  in Portugal.

 LONDON.

Am I studying abroad in London or am I traveling Europe for the semester? I've lost the ability to tell the difference. Even though I am still discovering unfamiliar cultures, meeting new people, and waking up to different skylines each morning, I can no longer tell you the best places to meet friends for a drink or where to grab a bit to eat in-between classes. If you come and visit and ask what touristy things you must do while you are here, I will not be able to tell you for I have not done them either.

For ten days Scotland was my home, today London is, and in 2 short months I will return to Fairfax and Turkey Creek Court will become my home once again. I hope by then I will have an understanding of where I have been for the past semester and all that I have learned in my time experiencing Scotland, studying here in London, and exploring other countries around Europe.

Czech It Out!

View of Prague from the top of Petrin Lookout Tower

 I know I am so behind on updates, so before I jet off to Greece and Italy for spring break (ug, my life is so hard), let me rewind to our trip to Prague two weeks ago (February 24-27).

Our trip began on our flight from London to Prague where we met the 20 or so drunk members of Beefy's Stag Party. Between their singing and inability to stay seated to the stewardesses threatening to call the police upon arrival, the plane ride was full of excitement.

Friday morning, we have our first lesson on the Czech. Courtesy of the night shift worker at our hostel, we learn that the Czech Republic is the number one beer consumers in the world. Of course he tells us this while nuzzling a beer at 9 am in the morning when we come down for breakfast.

We had originally planned on doing an 11am walking tour of Prague but got lost on the way to the meeting point and ended up wandering around New Town and Old Town. Thankfully we did have a map and once we knew we weren't going  to make the early tour, we headed in the direction of the meeting point for the next tour, and decided to meander down random streets. It's amazing getting lost in a city, let alone one that doesn't speak English. You are completely responsible for yourself and there is no one to help. Only you can rescue yourself or find your way.

market place

Elise, Andy, Blaine and Kate wandering in New Town

We ended up finding things like Mozart's house, a local market and authentic dining that we may not have been able to find otherwise.


















Later in the day, we met for the afternoon walking tour at the Astronomical Clock Tower in Old Town Square. The Astronomical Clock is a medieval clock which has two main dials. The lowest dial illustrates the months of the year and the farming conditions associated with each month. "The Walk of the Apostles", a clockwork hourly show of figures of the twelve Apostles, is also present by the lower dial. The upper dial is the astronomical dial which includes many inner rings. The Zodiac ring is a movable circle marked with the signs of the zodiac which indicates the location of the Sun. An outer ring indicates Old Czech Time and swings back and forth to coincide with the time of the sunset. There are also sun and moon hands on the face of the clock which not only tell the hour but also tell the time the sun and moon will rise and set. Buildings around Old Town Square such as the Clock Tower have been known to be the official way that arguments were settled in the early fifteen century. The challengers would race up to the top of the tower and try to throw one another out the window. Who ever lost would fall towards the ground where they would be impaled on spears.

Astronomical Clock

Prague suffered considerably less physical damage during World War II than some other major cities in the region, allowing a lot of its historic architecture, most of it dating back to the 12th century, to stay intact. Besides the Astronomical Clock, in Old Town, you can find buildings such as St. Nicholas Church, Tyn Cathedral, and the Jewish Quarter. In the Jewish Quarter the Old New (translated from Alteneu) Synagogue is Europe's oldest active synagogue.

Old New Synagogue

Friday night we ate in Old Town where I tried mulled wine for the first time and ate chicken stuffed with peach and gorgonzola with risotto on the side. Afterwards we went on a pub crawl which was super fun! We started in an old church which was empty except for some string lights, hippie tapestries, and a giant stone head of Joseph Stalin. From there we went to three more clubs, each one seeming to get classier and more expensive as the night wore on.

Andy, Kate and Elise

But look, we got t-shirts!

Saturday morning we hit the other side of the river to explore Charles Bridge and the Lennon Wall. From the beginning of the fifteenth century until 1841, the Charles Bridge was the only connection between Prague Castle and Old Town which sits on opposite sides of the river. The bridge is decorated with tons of statues all the way across and during the day is covered with tradesmen and musicians.

Charles Bridge

view of the river from the bridge

Next, we hit the Lennon Wall which is decorated with colorful graffiti and messages of Peace, Love, and Beatles. We took tons of pictures and then grabbed a pen and added our names to the wall!

Sam and Andy

We ended up staying on the other side of the river for dinner and ate at a restaurant by the water. After dinner we ended up at an outdoor restaurant (thankfully with heating lamps!) back in Old Town Square. We sat, drank, ate dessert and laughed at all the drunk people walking by.

Elise, Sam and I

Sunday morning, Elise and I got up early to go to Petrin Hill where we saw the Memorial to the Victims of Communism. The memorial is a series of seven bronze figures descending a flight of stairs. The figures are decayed and broken higher on the steps but become whole the closer they get to you at the bottom. On the top of Petrin Hill are a bunch of parks, gardens, and sights such as a mirror maze and the Petrin Lookout Tower. The Lookout Tower aka Prague's Eiffel Tower is essentially a mini version of the real one Although not as large as the Eiffel Tower in Paris, Elise and I climbed all the way to the top. At least I can say that I climbed the stairs to the top of one of the Eiffel towers!

On a swing with the tower behind me

Here are some additional photos:

Fast Food sausage and hot dog vendor

Tram to get around the city

Elise at the Lennon Wall

Shot of the sunset setting behind the city

XXX

Don't Worry, Be Happy 

And so began our trip in Amsterdam; Bobby McFerrin blaring over the loud speakers as the crew announced that it was time to get up.

overnight ferry

Drew, me, and Eric on the ferry

In the end, the ferry was the absolute best way to travel with a group of fourteen.  After the panic of how to get to the docks subsided it was nice to just sit back and enjoy the ride. We went to bed Thursday night in England and woke up early Friday morning in Amsterdam. Once off the ship however, chaos erupted with the realization that no one knew how to get to Amsterdam. All the signs for the train were in Dutch and as we scrambled to figure it out, the locals around us watched in amusement. We got on the train, then off the train, then back on again when we discovered that there is only one train that goes as far out as we were and that we'd have to transfer at some point in order to get to Amsterdam.

Things we should have figured out before we left London:
--What train to take from the ferry to the city
--Where to transfer trains
--The address of the hostel
--How to get to the hostel once at Amsterdam Centraal Station

Panic, relax, chaos, calm. Is there a pattern developing or is it just me?

We ended up at our hostel, Shelter City, just in time for lunch. The hostel was located in between Nieuwmarkt and the Red Light District...we decided to stick with Nieuwmarkt for food. Because our tickets for the Anne Frank House weren't until 5:30, we decided to go to the Heineken Factory after lunch for the 'Heineken Experience'. The tour takes you through the history of the family and company, the ingredients for their beer, and even lets you be apart of the fermentation process. 



Emily helping stir the wheat



A little tipsy from the 'free' beers that are included when you pay 14 pounds for the tour, we wandered from the Heineken Factory to the Anne Frank House where I quickly sobered up.

I knew the story, had seen the movie, had even read excerpts from her diary, but to be in that house, in their hidden apartment was an extremely emotional experience for me. For the first half I could pretend that it was like any other museum, but when I saw that bookcase that led to the secret annex, I couldn't pretend anymore. I had to literally force myself passed the door and up the steps. On the one hand I felt connected to everyone around me as we shared this experience together and collectlivly mourned the past. But at the same, I could feeling myself pulling away from the crowd, not wanting to feel rushed or touristy, all I really wanted to do was sit in the middle of the floor and cry. This was it, this is where they lived, this is where they were taken, this was real.

Traveling

Don't let anyone tell you that traveling around Europe is easy once you're there. Before I came here that's all I heard. "It's inexpensive and easy." "you can take RyanAir and Easy Jet anywhere." "You can travel from London to Rome cheaper than traveling cross-country." Of course there was that one person who warned me before I left that it wasn't as cheap or easy as I thought it was, but what's one voice against so many others?

What they don't tell you is that its not that much more expensive to fly across the United States than it is to fly across Europe, especially when you factor in hostels, food and getting to and from the airport. Oh yeah, and then don't forget that you're not just flying across Europe once, you are traveling every weekend. Other information that seems to slip through the cracks is the chaos that ensues when planning for a group and the panic you feel each time you enter those sixteen digits on your credit card.

The one thing that they did get right however, is that no matter how hard or costly it is to book a trip each weekend, it's completely worth it. Yes, we planned a trip for fourteen people to go to Amsterdam this weekend (group size not recommended) and yes, I lost my nerve several times with finding a plane or hostel that could fit all of us. Yes, it is hard to work around everyone's class schedules and yes, it was too expensive.

But in less than nine hours I will be getting on a train that will take me to the river where a night ferry is waiting to take us to Amsterdam. We have no plans of what we will be doing once we get there, but we do have many people with many ideas. All I can say is that even if I come home in May with no money left, it will be because I'm having amazing and worldly experiences with amazing and worldly people. When else will you have the time and freedom to travel to nine different countries in the span of four months?

Planning, worrying and being practical is what adults are for. Me, I'm here to break my bank account and have the most wonderful time of my life.

Friends

Eric and Drew

Elise, Kate and I

Sam, Emily, Andy and Blaine

Edinburgh In 5 Seconds

Because the prequel is a 10 day course for 3 credits, we are constantly “in class”. That being said although we do have a conference room that doubles as our “classroom,” most of the learning is done outside. We visited castles, museums, universities, parks, etc. Fifty percent of the learning is historical and the other fifty percent is cultural. Therefore when we go to a museum, for example, we don’t just learn about what the museum houses, but also about the architecture, its surroundings, how the people of Scotland view the building, etc.

Monday, January 9th, we went to go see parliament and although there still is an original building (of what actually used to be an aristocrats home), most of it is very modern. There is a motif of bamboo and stone and the windows open up in one direction towards the mountains and the Scottish land and in the other direction towards the city and the Scottish people. From there we walked the Royal Mile which reaches from the Palace of Holyrood (the Queen’s living quarters when she’s in Scotland) & Parliament to Edinburgh Castle.

 

 

Monday night we went on a tour of the Underground Vaults of Old Town Edinburgh. The vaults are a series of chambers formed in the late 18th century when the South Bridge was built to expand the growing town. The vaults were used to house taverns, cobblers and other tradesmen. When New Town was built in the turn of the century the vaults were abandoned by the businesses and where filled by the poor. The chambers became a slum for the lower class. Crime, disease and murder became common among the vaults. The vaults were also notorious for Burke and Hare, the infamous serial killers who sold corpses found in the Underground Vaults to medical schools.

While I am there, I really enjoy the vaults and the mystery and eeriness that surrounds it. I jump back and forth between being in the back of the group and racing ahead. At the times when I trail slowly behind, I duck into the dark side rooms that the group has bypassed and squint into the dark corners trying to find some lost treasure that has gone unseen by the many professional excavators that I’m sure have been down here countless amounts of times. If I don’t find a bone or ceramic chip that hasn’t been touched since the early 18^th century, I yearn to at least feel a ghostly presence. Not that I believe in ghosts, because I don’t, however I long to be, in some way, connected to the past and to history. I feel nothing however besides exhilaration as I quickly race ahead to lead the group into the next room. Whether we are standing in one room listening to the stories or if we are walking from room to room, I find myself constantly fighting the urge to blow out the candles. For fear of being caught (although what can happen besides being told I shouldn’t do that?) I settle with teasing the lights instead, lightly blowing them until they flare and flicker.

"you may think that these were the good 'ole days, but not down here they weren't"